Hey there,
It’s about 9:00 here, I just got back from dinner and had an amazing day in Rome. The day started for me at 5ish, when I ironed all of my clothes, then went to eat breakfast and write a blog post on my day in Florence, or something. Anyways, as 7:00 we left the ship, I had five different pictures taken of me with myriad different Romanesque characters, and then met up with our personal driver for the day, Gilberto.
The car for today was a 2011 Mercedes-Benz E220, which was very official looking. Leaving Civitavecchia, we began on what with traffic should be a 90 minute ride to the Vatican Museum, but we lucked out and did the journey in about an hour. Since we arrived early, our driver, who was fantastic, took us to a park at the top of one of the Seven Hills of Rome (it was named Jiancolo, maybe?) where we got a great panorama of the city and a little tour by the driver.
(Our driver kept apologizing up and down for speaking poor English—he was nearly fluent and had little reason to say sorry. What it made me think about however is the incredible double standard I’ve observed to exist in the past few days. People apologize up and down for being poor at a language foreign to them in their HOME country. Many times they have been completely understandable, but even in the other cases, they are more than willing (with the exception of ultra-snobby Monaco) to fight to communicate with you. I understand that the nature of their business, catering to the whims of tourists dictates this, but I’m not sure tourists to America are/would be greeted with the same friendliness I am here, which I’m sure serves to perpetuate the stereotype some foreigners have of the typical American basically being an arrogant cow-boy. Please note these are not my feelings toward the staff here on the boat; they are friendly too, but they have much more incentive to be. If he got poor customer reviews, you can bet your last dollar my steward Pradeep would be on the next plane to Jakarta.)
At 9:00 we met up with our guide for the day, Francesca at the entrance to the Vatican Museum. Since we pre-purchased our tickets, we were able to bypass the insane line and enter right away. We stopped at a courtyard right away where she gave her speech on the Sistine Chapel (complete with her own copies of the fresco and ceiling) in a environment where we’d actually be able to understand it. Take note: Francesca was so efficient, I ‘m surprised she wasn’t German. Entering the actual gallery, we were given the choice of seeing a tour primarily focused on paintings or one on sculptures. However stupid it may be, all humanoid sculpture tends to blend together for me over time, so I chose the painting-centric tour.
I later learned that Francesca was had multiple degrees in French, English, Art History and Classical History. Needless to say, she was a dynamic human encyclopedia of anything Catholic and/or Roman. She knew the exact dates of each painting we saw, as well as fairly detailed biographies about each artist. Amazing. Out of all the works of art we saw in this museum, I’d have to say my favorite was the exhibition on Raphael. Now I’m unsure on what exact pieces I saw, but the versatility he displayed was incredible.
From the Vatican Museum, we headed into the Sistine Chapel, which was as crowded as it was striking. It was in my 9th grade Western Civilization textbook where I first learned of the work of Michelangelo, but being a 14 year old kid, I was “too cool” to think it was anything special. I was wrong. I correct words to describe it are simply not in my vocabulary, so my recommendation is if you want to appreciate it, you have to see it yourself. After the Sistine Chapel, we went into St Peter’s Square, where we saw the Papal balcony and got walk around for a little bit, getting a deluge of information along the way. We then went into St Peter’s Basilica, which, like the Sistine Chapel was beyond words. Within it, we saw the beatified Pope John Paul II’s (I don’t think coffin is the right word, but that’s what I’m going with) coffin, and got to see/learn about all of the chapels that comprise the Basilica. I’ll try to look through the pictures I took to jog my memory as to what else we saw here, it sure was a lot.
We met our driver outside St Peter’s Square, where we went to the top of Federal Hill, offering a great vantage point of the Ancient Roman Forum. Francesca knew the exact history of each solitary stone in the area (or she was an excellent compulsive liar). Either way, both she and the site were incredibly impressive. From here, we went on to the Coliseum, the first thing that came to my mind when I thought of Ancient Rome, probably thanks to Russell Crowe. In the interest of time, we didn’t get inside of it, but it was impressive enough from the exterior, around which we walked completely.
(Side note: I’ve seen 4 or 5 STUNNING Italian Policewomen here. American desperately needs help in this department. )
From here we toured a few more churches, seeing Michelangelo’s Moses (good, but David is better in my opinion) and St Peter’s Chains (wait, who am I to call something of Michelangelo’s “good”?? I still draw with stick figures for god’s sake), but at some point it all began to blend together. Nobody is to blame for this but myself, as I was hungry. After lunch, we went to the Trevi Fountain, where per the tradition, we tossed 3 coins into it behind our backs. They say that if you do this, you are destined to return to Rome again. I sure hope this is true.
We took a few minutes to shop for souvenirs. I got a Roma bumper sticker to add to the collection forming on my laptop lid and my sister picked up an authentic Pope Benedict XVI Bobblehead Doll.
Moving on, we toured the Spanish Steps from the car, driving through the narrow alleys, looking super-official and stopping occasionally for Kodak Moments. I’m not sure that this is the ideal way to get a feel for a place, but given the ridiculous time restraint imposed by the ship, a 9:00 departure time, there was no better way to see the number of places we did.
Before I get too far ahead of myself, I have to talk about the last stop on the tour: The Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls. As the name suggests, this was located outside of city center, which made for a much more peaceful, serene church. There was an immaculately manicured botanical garden leading up to the entrance and once inside, you are greeted with an incredibly powerful scene. Marble surrounds you and the eye is instantly drawn to a brass structure in the center of the church before the alter, which is St Paul’s tomb. In Catholic art, Saints Peter and Paul are typically positioned close to one another, so it only seemed appropriate to see Paul’s tomb to finish off the day.
The drive back to Civitavecchia was largely uneventful, with the exception of our driver almost getting hit by another driver who failed to look before merging. Wanting to leave the situation in the dust, Giberto opened the Benz up, cruised at 180 km/h for 15 minutes and got us back to the ship in no time.
Looking back on the day, I learned that I could easily spend a week in Rome and only scratch the surface on what there is to do and see in it. I would prefer the cruise spent and extra day in Rome instead of wasting a day at sea or going to Mallorca. That being said, you can only play the cards you were dealt, and judging by the reaction of the Italian family we eat dinner with every night, we saw a week’s worth of Rome in 8 hours. For that I am glad.
I’m off to find some headphones as mine broke yesterday and then probably to the casino. I have $70 of essentially house money I’m going to flip into $7,000.
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| Gilberto looking over his car. |
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| St Peter's Basilica |
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| The Coliseum |
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| St Paul's Basilica |
Wish me Luck,
Matt
PS: We went to the Pantheon, too. Pompeii/Sorrento/Capri tomorrow.